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Good to the Grain: Baking with Whole-Grain Flours, by Kim Boyce
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Product details
Hardcover: 208 pages
Publisher: Stewart, Tabori and Chang; 1st Printing edition (March 1, 2010)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1584798300
ISBN-13: 978-1584798309
Product Dimensions:
9 x 1 x 9 inches
Shipping Weight: 2.6 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.6 out of 5 stars
93 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#371,204 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
This book is gorgeous, and a great choice for those who are trying to add variety to their baking and sneak in some whole grain goodness. I admit to being disappointed though when I got it and realized that the majority of recipes call for a significant amount of all-purpose white flour. After all the glowing reviews I had hoped that somehow (miraculously!) someone had finally figured out how to make these delicious treats without it. She addresses this head-on at the start of the book and talks about the compromises she's had to make to retain the texture and loft of the baked goods, but I hadn't seen it mentioned in any reviews so I wasn't aware of it when I purchased it online. I'll still enjoy it, and look forward to happily making many of these delicious recipes. I'll just make them less frequently than if they were "of" whole grain rather than "with" whole grain.
I really wanted to give this cookbook 5 stars, but she should have included weights in her recipes - particularly at her level of baking expertise. Many other cookbooks written by chefs with less experience have them. I read her book in one sitting and really appreciated her personal attention to instructions and introductions to whole-grain flours. I don't agree with the reviewers who complain about her using white flour. She explains it perfectly well as to why she combines them. As other reviewers commented, the chocolate chip cookie and figgy scones recipes are awesome. The recipes take out the fear of working with Whole-Grain flours. I automatically buy cookbooks written by chefs who have worked with Nancy Silverton or Alice Waters. Their flavours are cleaner and they bring some professional secrets into the home kitchen. If Kim writes another cookbook, I'll buy it - but maybe use a better format that includes weights.
I love baking and cooking, but I try to be very selective about the cookbooks I buy. This was one that I knew I had to get. It was also one I actually read the whole way through in one sitting, which I don't often do. It's divided into sections based on the type of grain (there are twelve), and she spends a couple pages at the start of each section introducing you to the grain. I found this part to be really interesting and informative, especially for the ones I knew less about like spelt and teff. I also loved the full-page pictures. The only con is that because some of these grains are rare or expensive, I haven't been able to try some of the recipes yet. Some of my favorites that I have tried: strawberry barley scones, blue cheese and onion scones, and spelt olive oil cake.
This book is fantastic. And I am quite particular about how food should taste.Every recipe I have tried has been delicious (including the Figgy Buckwheat scones, Zucchini bread, and Drop Biscuits with Strawberries). The author's approach to baking with whole grains is unusual in that she uses them more as another flavor element rather than something to sneak into your food because they are good for you. She has clearly done a lot of kitchen research to figure out what types of flavors go with each type of grain, and results pay off in this lovely book.The book is organized into chapters by the type of flour used. I find this useful because you can buy the types of flour that interest you and then find lots of recipes to use up that flour.The beginning of each chapter also includes some background history of the flour, and tips for how to use it (what types of flavors pair well with it, whether it should be used with another type of flour to get the best texture, etc), which is great knowledge that allows you to experiment with these flours outside of the recipes in the book.The recipes are not difficult, though some of them do take some time. But the instructions are clear, photos are lovely, and the layout is nice. The only thing I wish this book had is weight measures in addition to volume.Do note that this book is not necessarily trying to be "healthy". It uses a liberal amount of butter and cream. But they are calories well spent, and you'll at least feel a little better about incorporating some whole grains into your baking. I'd highly recommend this book to anyone who enjoys baking! It will definitely become one of the well-loved and food-stained books in my kitchen.
I found out about this book from an interview in a local weekly, Portland, Oregon paper, where the author resides and I work. Ms. Boyce, a former pastry chef at famed LA restaurant Campanile, moved to Oregon not long ago with her chef husband and family. Adding to her bona fides was the fact that while in California, she worked with "Secrets of Baking" author Sherry Yard, whose book I also own. Her initiation in whole grain experimentation began as a result of wanting to make healthier baked treats and pancakes for her kids. Lots of experimentation and development later, "Good to the Grain" was a reality. The book's chapters are divided into grain types with plenty of recipes using each. Everything is clear and directions are easy to follow. Muffins, cookies, breads, flatbreads, pies and bar cookies are among the many offerings. Some of the more esoteric grains used include, rye, spelt, quinoa and amaranth.I bought the book after tasting some of the recipes at a specialty coffee house for which Ms. Boyce supplies baked goods. They were interesting and the crust of her hand pies, made with spelt flour as well as wheat, was one of the best I'd had. This is a point of which those contemplating purchase of the book should be aware. This is NOT a book about baking with only whole grains. Trained pastry chefs understand that the exclusive use of whole grains frequently doesn't produce a desirable texture or flavor in many pastry items. The auhor combines different types of flour in many recipes to achieve a flavor and texture balance and enhancement. This book is a good primer for beginning and more advanced bakers in the use of whole grains in breads and pastries.
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